Barbarian Days
Barbarian Days
William Finnegan
Paul Graham
It's one of those rare books that divide your life into two parts: before you read it, and after. - Paul Graham
Barack Obama
Barack Obama's "2016 Summer Reading List."
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Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

William Finnegan
By
William Finnegan
4.3
3229
ratings on Goodreads

"Barbarian Days" by William Finnegan is not merely a memoir; it is a voyage into the soul of surfing, a testament to the lure of the ocean that transcends the boundaries of a sport and becomes a way of life. Finnegan, with his lucid prose and veteran journalist’s eye, chronicles his lifelong affair with the waves, from his early beginnings on the shores of California and Hawaii to his relentless pursuit of surf across the globe. This is a story of obsession, the kind that propels a person to chase the horizon, to seek out the world’s most elusive waves in far-flung locales, from the South Pacific's untouched islands to the bustling coastlines of New York and San Francisco. It is a narrative that captures the raw, youthful exhilaration of confronting nature at its most formidable, the introspection that comes with solitary pursuits, and the deep bonds forged in the face of shared peril. But "Barbarian Days" is more than an adventure saga; it is an intimate examination of a life lived on the edge, a detailed tapestry woven with threads of cultural anthropology, personal growth, and the evolution of a sport that defies categorization. Finnegan delves into the complexities of his experiences, from navigating the intricacies of local cultures and the dynamics of male friendships solidified in adrenaline and saltwater, to confronting the shifting landscapes of his own life against the backdrop of societal upheaval. With humor and humility, Finnegan invites readers into the heart of his passion, offering a view not just of a surfer’s world, but of a seeker’s quest for meaning amidst the tumultuous, captivating embrace of the sea.

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Released
2015
21 Jul
Length
447
Pages

2

recommendations

recommendation

It's one of those rare books that divide your life into two parts: before you read it, and after. - Paul Graham
Barack Obama's "2016 Summer Reading List."
The particulars of new places grabbed me and held me, the sweep of new coasts, cold, lovely, dawns. The world was incomprehensibly large, and there was still so much to see. Yes, I got sick sometimes of being an expatriate, always ignorant, on the outside of things, but I didn't feel ready for domestic life, for seeing the same people, the same places, thinking more or less the same thoughts, each day. I liked surrendering to the onrush, the uncertainty, the serendipity of the road.
— William Finnegan, Barbarian Days

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